On 12 September 1940, four teenagers — Marcel Ravidat, Jacques Marsal, Georges Agnel and Simon Coencas — followed a dog to a hole left by a fallen tree near Montignac in the Dordogne, and lowered themselves into a chamber no human had entered for some 17,000 years. The walls erupted with painted animals: great aurochs and bulls, horses, stags and bison, in flowing ochre, black and red. They had found the Lascaux cave, one of the supreme works of Ice-Age art, made by Magdalenian hunter-gatherers of the Upper Palaeolithic. Across its galleries are roughly 600 painted and drawn figures and nearly 1,500 engravings, with the celebrated Hall of the Bulls — its largest aurochs over five metres long — the most famous painted chamber in the world.
Lascaux became so popular after the war that the cave nearly destroyed itself: the breath, heat and humidity of thousands of visitors fed algae and mineral crusts across the paintings. To save them, the original cave was closed to the public in 1963 and has never reopened — it is now monitored in near-darkness and visited only by a handful of conservators. The art you have seen in photographs is real, ancient and astonishingly fragile, and it is sealed away forever for its own protection. That is the honest heart of any visit to Lascaux today: you do not enter the original cave, because no one does.
What you visit instead is Lascaux IV — the International Centre for Cave Art, opened in 2016 below the hill that hides the real cave. Designed by the architects Snøhetta, it is the first complete, full-scale replica of the entire Lascaux cave, recreated to the millimetre by artists and 3D-imaging specialists so that the rock, the contours and every painted line match the original. Walking it in the cool and the dark, it is almost impossible to tell you are not inside the cave itself — and unlike the few who saw Lascaux before 1963, you get the whole of it, with workshop galleries, a 3D cinema and interactive exhibits that explain how and why our ancestors painted here. It is, paradoxically, the closest anyone alive can get to standing inside Lascaux.